Essentially what the watch is doing is keeping track of two times as one. There is a switch in the movement that changes which one is being displayed. Adjusting the times isn't too hard, and the ability to juxtapose a local and reference time on the fly is really handy. It cleans up the dial and makes the Hora Muni a travel watch when you want it to be, and a daily wearer when you don't. I don't know too many watches that can claim that.
Special edition USA
Series Limited to 100 pieces
Numbered from No. 01/100 to No. 100/100
Case "Classic Fusion" - Diameter 45 mm
Polished and satin black ceramic
Bezel Satin Black ceramic
Crystal Sapphire with anti-reflective treatment
Case-back Black ceramic with Hublot engraving
Crown Black ceramic with Hublot logo
Water resistance 5 ATM or approximately 50 metres
Dial Black sapphire with text and citations from the American
Constitution and colours of the American flag
Hands Polished, black nickel platted
Movement HUB1112 Automatic, hour, minute, seconds
No. of components 63
Bridges Satin-finished, bevelled and polished
Screw Black PVD
Oscillating weight Tungsten with black PVD treated dimpled surface
Barrel Reinforced spring
Escapement Glucydur hairspring
Power reserve Approximately 42 hours
Strap Black Gummy Alligator (alligator skin upper stitched onto black rubber base)
Clasp Steel black PVD deployant buckle
Among the things I wish I could afford, but never will, are sovereign islands, servants, and watches like this. Depending on the material (the watch comes in both zirconium and "king gold") it costs between 0,000 - 5,000. Yes, it isn't the most expensive watch I've written about, but it isn't something to wave your wallet at. Is it possible for people like me to still appreciate it? I think so because, for me, a lot of my appreciation for the watch comes from simply seeing it a few times and knowing things like this are being made. By the way, given Hublot's penchant to offer many different models (some with only minor detail changes), this watch should not be confused with a similar King Power watch released this year that has a carbon fiber bezel and also includes a minute repeater.
Audemars Piguet makes a statement about how thin the case is. Though unfortunately they don't publish the case thickness. Though even the standard Royal Oak is a thin watch as it is. The Openworked Extra-Thin Royal Oak is 39mm wide just like the original 1972 Royal Oak. The bracelet is lovely as always and the design looks as pleasing today as it did 40 years ago. Talk about timeless.
For the classic look of the watch the case size of 42mm wide is appropriate. Zenith will offer it in steel as well as 18k rose gold. The dial is guilloche machine engraved with applied hour indicators and properly sized hands. Zenith is really leading the market today with mainstream models that have hands the right length. The steel version has either a steel and blue or steel and gold dial. The watch has a sapphire crystal and is water resistant to 50 meters. Zenith offers it attached to a black or brown leather strap. Overall an attractive piece with a lot of inherent functionality, and the Ludwig Oechslin connection is just the icing on the cake for me.
- Fine Adjustment System
One of those pieces is this Bell & Ross Vintage Original BR 126. There are a range of these new vintage looking watches from the brand and you'd be forgiven to get them confused given the soup of names. As you can hear in the review video, I like to muse on the fact that not only is "Vintage Original" a bit redundant, but that other watches from Bell & Ross have almost identical names. So when shopping for them, go by look rather than name to make it easy.
The winder drum is pretty silent (especially with the cover closed), and seems to run smoothly. I really don't have complaints about the unit when it is operating. The large cuff unit comes out with a snap and clicks back into place with ease. With a springy back, it is meant to collapse to handle large to small watches. I found that it was able to accommodate most, but not all watches. Women especially might find it a bit tough to put their watches on this unit. For whatever reason winders tend to be mostly made for larger sized bracelets. An interesting feature that I like about the module 2.7 is that if there is a problem with the mechanism or something is stuck or not inserted properly, the little red light will blink. Otherwise the green light will blink (slowly, but it does blink all the time).
MB&F ensures that the dials are as easy to read on these HM2s as they are on any other HM2 model. The left dial on the watch has the date and moon phase, while the right dial has the time. On the back of the watch you have the spinning "battle axe" style automatic rotor in gold.
The dial is pretty interesting. I like the design of the subdial hands and dials themselves. There is something almost 1970s about them, but I like that. While the main dial hands are a bit short and aviator in style, the subdial hands are proportional and quirky. It is also interesting how the chronograph subdials steal all the attention on the dial, but that reading the time is still pretty simple.
Each of the brand's watch cases are elliptical in shape. They bring to mind the iconic Patek Philippe Ellipse watch. Though the Rough Sea case is more Patek Philippe Aquanaut in design with some JeanRichard Diverscope in the mix. You can see more of the Diverscope in John Isaac's Grand Prix chronograph watches.
Real quick, here is an interesting piece of history that is being offered up for auction on eBay right now. This is one of 17 original prototype Movado Museum Dial watches from what seems to be from the 1970s. According to the auction, these were artist proof models made in various styles and to be included in the permanent collection at the New York Museum of Modern Art for which designer Nathan George Horwitt designed the museum dial clock in 1947. According to the MOMA website, they have this watch, as well as two original Museum Dial wall clocks in their archives.
One of the most notoriously difficult to find German watch brands is Damasko. They tend to make cool, high-function tool watches for a fair price. If you are a fan of Sinn, you'll also like Damasko - and it goes without saying that Damasko's designs are highly inspired by Sinn timepieces (which are also less than ironically hard to find).
I gained a lot of respect for the chronograph after visiting with Dubois-Depraz. I also learned a lot more about how the watch industry works. Suffice it to say that educating yourself about the watch industry is like understanding watch movement. From the surface if can appear decorated and impressive, but you really need to get inside of it to start understanding the nuances and see how things work together (for the better or the worse). Thanks to the Dubois brothers and thanks to the people at Dubois-Depraz for their open doors.
Consider MB&F trendsetters in this area, and the HM2 Sapphire Vision watches examples of what can be done when sapphire and watch making come together in harmony. These watches a pain to take pictures of, but seeing them in person is all the "sell" you need. Give em a go at ,000 a piece. MB&F
The Bremont C17 Globemaster isn't available to the general public, but I have a feeling a version design elements of it might show up in future models. On Bremont's website the watch is listed, but only the special people the piece was made for can get it. These are certain to be collectors items in the future if you can ever get one.
For traveling within countries that have half-hour, versus full-hour time zones, Blancpain has released their first half hour time zone watch. It also functions nicely when you are traveling within standard hour increment time zone countries. The watch is 40mm wide in 18k red gold and clearly part of their Villeret collection.
The Malton 160 Cushion watches are in steel and 42mm x 42mm. The squarishness of the case makes them feel nice and big. Promotions are good, and I like the different types of polish (brushed and polished surfaces). Note that the watches you see are all pre-production prototypes. Meaning they are gonna be a bit beaten up. "Extensive testing?"